{"paper":{"title":"Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections","license":"http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","headline":"","cross_cats":["physics.app-ph","physics.flu-dyn"],"primary_cat":"physics.ao-ph","authors_text":"Dan Liberzon, David Andrade, Eytan Meisner, Mariano Galvagno, Raphael Stuhlmeier","submitted_at":"2023-06-23T11:26:10Z","abstract_excerpt":"We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and therefore come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly-nonlinear, synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading, and shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast."},"claims":{"count":0,"items":[],"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57"},"source":{"id":"2306.13447","kind":"arxiv","version":1},"verdict":{"id":null,"model_set":{},"created_at":null,"strongest_claim":"","one_line_summary":"","pipeline_version":null,"weakest_assumption":"","pith_extraction_headline":""},"integrity":{"clean":true,"summary":{"advisory":0,"critical":0,"by_detector":{},"informational":0},"endpoint":"/pith/2306.13447/integrity.json","findings":[],"available":true,"detectors_run":[],"snapshot_sha256":"c28c3603d3b5d939e8dc4c7e95fa8dfce3d595e45f758748cecf8e644a296938"},"references":{"count":0,"sample":[],"resolved_work":0,"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57","internal_anchors":0},"formal_canon":{"evidence_count":0,"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57"},"author_claims":{"count":0,"strong_count":0,"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57"},"builder_version":"pith-number-builder-2026-05-17-v1"}