{"paper":{"title":"A nonlinear, nondispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach","license":"http://arxiv.org/licenses/nonexclusive-distrib/1.0/","headline":"","cross_cats":["physics.ao-ph"],"primary_cat":"physics.flu-dyn","authors_text":"Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Pieter B. Smit, R. T. Guza","submitted_at":"2021-10-21T09:02:18Z","abstract_excerpt":"A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSWE) to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH), the new theory shows that spatial gradients in IG energy flux are nearly completely balanced by the combined effect of bottom stresses and predominantly nonlinear triad interactions. The new balance confirms many features of existing weakly nonlinear theories, and yields an improved"},"claims":{"count":0,"items":[],"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57"},"source":{"id":"2110.10990","kind":"arxiv","version":2},"verdict":{"id":null,"model_set":{},"created_at":null,"strongest_claim":"","one_line_summary":"","pipeline_version":null,"weakest_assumption":"","pith_extraction_headline":""},"integrity":{"clean":true,"summary":{"advisory":0,"critical":0,"by_detector":{},"informational":0},"endpoint":"/pith/2110.10990/integrity.json","findings":[],"available":true,"detectors_run":[],"snapshot_sha256":"c28c3603d3b5d939e8dc4c7e95fa8dfce3d595e45f758748cecf8e644a296938"},"references":{"count":0,"sample":[],"resolved_work":0,"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57","internal_anchors":0},"formal_canon":{"evidence_count":0,"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57"},"author_claims":{"count":0,"strong_count":0,"snapshot_sha256":"258153158e38e3291e3d48162225fcdb2d5a3ed65a07baac614ab91432fd4f57"},"builder_version":"pith-number-builder-2026-05-17-v1"}