Mathematical theory of Airy waves on sloping beaches predicts infinite propagation speeds causing a crush between crest and trough.
Note in Math., Springer-Verlag, 503, 426-437 (1976)
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Tunamis on a deep open sea and on a sloping beach -- a mathematical theory
Mathematical theory of Airy waves on sloping beaches predicts infinite propagation speeds causing a crush between crest and trough.