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Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

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arxiv 2306.13447 v1 pith:IJBB4YP6 submitted 2023-06-23 physics.ao-ph physics.app-phphysics.flu-dyn

classification physics.ao-phphysics.app-phphysics.flu-dyn
keywords correctionsdirectionalnonlinearforecastingfrequencylinearmethodologyseas
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We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and therefore come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly-nonlinear, synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading, and shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

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